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Columns: Of This Fantastic Peach
Winter Greens



Though the earth began its polar shift last month, it’s in January when I look for transformation. With the holiday clamor packed away and the buttery sweets either eaten or frozen, I yearn for fresh, for light, for a sprig of something entirely new. I crave, among other things, vegetables: crisp, leafy greens.

 

Despite my yearning and the earth’s infinitesimal tilt, we remain in the dark cold of winter. The market and grocery store offer little local produce: turnips, stocky carrots, last season’s apples. Outside, gardens lay dormant under mulch and snow, trees stand bare, even seaweed-shores have frozen gray. I see no sign of green, not a single sprout—except in one small corner of our backyard.

 

Late last summer, shortly after we settled into our new house, my husband built a coldframe—a miniature greenhouse—on a weedy patch at the end of the driveway. Our three boys helped to fill the frame with soil and plant rows of leaf lettuce, kale, arugula, and other greens. Over the months, they’ve watched seedlings turn to plants, and plants to salad. We brush snow from the frame’s slanted window to let in the afternoon sun and at dinnertime, after the sun has set, tramp outside with headlamps and winter boots, crack open the lid and snip a few fresh leaves.

 

Winters can feel long in Nova Scotia (I know from years spent here as a young adult). Though the ocean moderates and spares us biting cold, spring just waffles, nibbling on snow and rain-turned-ice and then abandoning its mission. A frozen winter is new for our boys, they remember only South Africa, so I try not to wish this long season away. Yes, I crave fresh and green but I want to skate too, and build snowmen, and fly downhill with the kids on their toboggans. The coldframe allows me both, winter and greens. My season-bending salad, a small but vitalizing triumph.

 

My kids do not agree. On a dreary, cranky, school night—outside still freezing, inside near boiling—I harvested a colander of lettuce, bok choy, and baby romaine. I added avocado, grapefruit, herbs, and honey, and plunked it on the table as part of the family meal.

 

“Winter Blues Salad,” I announced. “Made with lettuce from our coldframe.”

 

All eyes on the salad bowl, but no takers.

 

“It will chase away the winter blues. You know, that yucky feeling when you want it to be warm and bright but it’s not? The greens chase away the blues.... Get it?”

 

All eyes now on me.

 

“And it has grapefruit... and a sweet dressing you’ll really like.”

 

On I rattled, selling this sweet, crisp, homegrown salad to my kids. Alex accepted the grapefruit, Jon gnawed one lettuce leaf. I ate the remaining Winter Blues and then asked myself why. Parenting magazines tell me, page after page, tip upon tip, how to get kids eating greens. I’ve done how. I want to know why. Why do kids consistently reject leafy vegetables?

 

I spent a fascinating (though non-literary) morning with journals called Pediatrics, Chemical Senses, and Obesity Research, and discovered TAS2R38, a gene that affects taste. In fact, TAS is one of many taste genes we all carry but express in different ways. Roughly two thirds of the human population carry variations of TAS that allow them to taste bitter flavors. These “tasters,” as they are dubbed in the scientific world, enjoy an advantage over non-tasters: the ability to detect bitter poisons—very handy in an evolutionary sense. Unfortunately, tasters risk tossing out their veggies with their bitter poisons. Broccoli, cabbage, turnip and, yes, those leafy greens in my coldframe, harbor bitter chemicals so tasters have to learn to like them. And most of us do. By adulthood, most adults, like me, override their bitter-aversion and love coffee, olives, and leafy vegetables.

 

But children remain more sensitive to bitter flavors, perhaps because their small size renders them more vulnerable to poisons. That winter salad, in other words, tasted sweeter to me than it did to Jon. As one scientific journal summed up, children “live in different worlds than adults in many sensory realms: sounds, smells, tastes and irritants, but these differences are especially striking for bitter taste.”

 

There you go. Kids are genetically predisposed to hate greens. What a relief! I’ll just lock down that coldframe until the boys turn 18 and stop cheerleading leafy vegetables through dinnertime.

 

Except...  I still crave winter greens. Almond and red onion salad, arugula and blue cheese pizza, sesame and bok choy stir fry. My kids will still complain, pick, quarantine their greens on the side of the plate, but I’ll continue to eat them—grow, cook, serve, and eat them. That, in essence, is what those hundreds of magazine tips suggest: make healthy food available; set an example; involve kids in preparation. It’s all we can do. Scientists have little idea how TAS and other genes behave in the tumult of culture or environment, much less the family dinner table. Through some mysterious means, through exposure, testing, trying, we learn to love the veggie.

 

How that change occurs remains, for better or worse, a riddle. But one thing is certain: change will come. The shift I seek during long, cold January will eventually arrive. The kids will grow. The earth will tilt. Green will sprout from garden beds and flourish into bitter-sweet salads in our coldframe and on our table. And someday, my kids will eat them.

 

 

Winter Blues Salad

From Evergreen Organics, Vancouver

 

Vinaigrette

4 tsp. fresh lemon juice

3 tbsp. fresh grapefruit juice

1 tbsp. honey

1/4 tsp. salt and pepper

1/3 cup light olive oil

 

Salad

3 grapefruit, peeled and cut into segments

1 bunch greens

1 bunch fresh basil or mint chopped

3 avocadoes

 

Drizzle salad with dressing and chase the blues away!

 

 

 



I seem to remember learning that we are born with many more tastebuds that we gradually lose through time as well, thus rendering us less sensitive. But there seems to be some inherent aversion to novelty overall (aligns with your theory) and texture too. From my perspective, I would like to just get over feeling insulted by the 'ewww's' and other expressions of disgust. Is there a crash course in this?
It's interesting how some people love certain foods... and others equally hate it. A study was done on the DNA of 30,000 people on whether they like cilantro/coriander or not and indeed it was linked to a gene in our DNA. A predisposed preference or dislike was found. I'm sure the same links can be found with different foods. My husband loves hot spicy food, I can't handle it! And cilantro, for me, tastes like soap. Your salad sounds great though ;-) and I'm sure your kids will one day grow to appreciate it!!
Hi, Katherine. This column is informative AND beautiful. Thanks so much for writing it. I appreciate your lyric prose, as well as your craving for greens. Not to mention "the greens chase away the blues...get it?" I laughed out loud! And not to alarm you but...my son is eighteen, and greens? Well, he calls greens "Mom food" and passes it up. So, us moms will have to get together for an arugula blue cheese pizza. Yum!
What an interesting article! Thanks for providing an insight into why children prefer sweet things over savoury/bitter. My 20 year old now drinks coffee (with sugar). But after half a century, I still can't eat grapefruit without sugar or honey.
Lovely writing, as always! Barb Stuckey (author of Taste: What You're Missing, The Passionate Eater's Guide to Why Good Food Tastes Good)extends on the research you cite, and provides a great read regarding how our five senses work together to form "flavor perceptions." Her book also offers lots of interesting pairings to "change the chemistry of flavor". These pairings might, perhaps, push your kids to an appreciation of that cold frame a bit faster. On another note, our family conducted a fun experiment one lazy weekend afternoon. I had clipped an article from the magazine "Food and Wine" that guided us step-by-step through a "wine tasting workout". Don't worry, even our 8 year could participate as no alcohol involved! What was involved, however, was a blindfold, certain food and non food items, sniffing, and lots of laughter. While blindfolded we were each asked to sniff, and then rank from 1-10, our preferences of things like lychee, pencil shavings, mushrooms, (fakin') bacon, a rock, sage, raspberries, cassis, lime zest, and orange blossom water. Based on our rankings certain degrees of acidity, tannins and sweetness of beverages were suggested. Although the experiment focused on wine the experience gave me a new appreciation for my own taste preferences, and for those of the folks I cook for most.
A homegrown green salad in the middle of a snowy white winter sounds fantastic! But don`t worry about the kids not eating it - here in sunny SA I`m told by a 6 and a 4 year old that they are allergic to vegetables. I have to resort to adding purees to mince.... but don`t tell. Juicy pink watermelon, neon kiwi fruit and bright yellow pineapples are a different matter though. I can only hope the vitamins in fruit compensate for the lack of veggies. Enjoy the rest of your winter. x
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